Easter Eggs to Death World/Carnivorous Plants

A quick and Easy tutorial on how to turn Easter eggs into Carnivorous plants Tabletop Terrain

Advertisements

As the title suggest, on the heals of Easter Sunday I decided to try my hand at turning plastic Easter eggs into some creepy carnivorous plants to be used as table top terrain in wargames such as WH40k or (if my friends will ever get on board lol) Wh40k Kill Team Kill Zone Death World Forest. This is super easy if you have some basic hobby tools. Doing two of these only took me about an hour tops (that’s also counting time for me to figure out how I wanted to do it and what I wanted them to look like, though will need to let PVA glue dry before priming).

This is what they look like before being primed and painted.

The tools you will need are as follows

Hobby knife

Heat gun

Hot glue gun

Hand held hobby drill (like for miniatures)

Two pairs of tweezers

First (simple) variant.

To start off you will cut the plastic Easter eggs apart and (optional) use the taller half

Get something you want to base it one, but don’t attach it to the base yet

Next drill a hole in the center of the egg where there is an indention.

Then take your hobby knife and cut four slits in the egg making an X, and cut the corners off so it looks like this.

Next being careful take tweezers and with one pair hold the egg and the other bend the flaps outward while you heat the plastic with the heat gun

Then hot glue some tooth pics tips at the center end of each flap.

After that hot glue it to the base you cut out and then cover it in hot clue to give it texture and make it look more organic looking.

Second (complicated) variant

The other variant I did used the first steps of cutting the egg and all, but this time you are going to trim the flaps so there is more space between each one like this.

At the center of the base glue some wires sticking up like this

then take some cotton (I used the tip of a giant cue tip since I didnt have cotton balls) glue it around and on top of the wires to to fill the space

cover that with some hot glue to give it different textures. Next take a flat piece of thin plastic (like the plastic cover from a toy box) and cut out four triangles

they don’t have to be perfect since they will leaves. Again take your heat gun, and open up the flaps on the egg and this time take each plastic triangle and heat them so you can shape them. Be sure to shape the bottom of them to fit the curve of the egg.

Next hot glue the leaves so they line up with the gap between each flap of the egg.

Then take some more cotton and glue it along the inside of the egg like this

After that glue the egg to your base and cover it in glue like you did the first one. Getting the glue to have strings attaching the flaps I think makes it look really good and very slimy/organic.

Finally pour PVA glue into the egg to add more texture and to make the cotton look more fleshy.

Let that dry before you prime them.

Here they are together before they are primed

I reccomend spray painting them and getting the can pretty close to do a very thick coat so it helps blend everything together more. Here it is based purple and with some sprue plants on the bases. As here they are finished(ish) I didnt put much effort in painting them as you can tell lol.

Using Games-workshop Water Slide Decals (Easy and Cheap)

A very easy and cheap tutorial on how to use Games-workshop water slide decals and get great results.

So I know I have had trouble in the past with the Games-workshop water slide decals and after learning how to do them easily and getting good results I decided if anyone wanted to know my method I would do a tutorial. So hear it its!

I got a shoulder pad I had from my bits and decided to paint it up so that if worst comes to worst I can always use it for basing another miniature in the future. So with that in mind and my army being World Eaters I opted to do an Emperors Children Shoulder pad and decal.

So let’s get to it.

Materials you will need.

1. Games-workshop water slide decal of your choice.

2. Two containers or water (one to clean your brushes, and one that is clean to soak the decal and wet your brushes and thin your paints/varnish.

3. Games-workshop Technical paint ‘Ardcoat

4. Matt Varnish (I used Vallejo’s Matt varnish)

5. Pair of tweezers (to hold the decal in water).

6. Your desired brushes.

7. Paper Towel.

Prep

I based the shoulder pad with Abaddon Black. Then I did to coats of Xerxes Purple. On the trim I based them in Brass Scorpion. I then dry brushed the purple with Pink Horror and applied a wash of Carroburg Crimson. Finally I applied 3 coats of Auric Armour Gold to the trim. I wanted to have the dry brush texture there so you can see that all details are preserved doing this method.

Step One

Now that the shoulder pad is painted the way I wanted I applied a generous coating of ‘Ardcoat that was thinned with water (about 1/3 water) all over the purple part of the pauldron (shoulder pad). This is to seal and protect your work underneath as well as give you a smooth surface to apply the decal. If you want you can apply more coats, but I find one works. Let that fully dry.

Step Two

Grab your decal with your tweezers and hold it in the water (Note: the new decals only take about 30-45 seconds in the water, but the new ones take longer).

Next you take the decal and put it near where you will apply it to the miniature. The older decals stick a little more to the paper so you may have to use your finger a little to get it moving off the paper. The new ones you can just use your brush. Make sure the brush you use to apply the decal is wet, this will be important for the next part.

Step Three

The application part is not as scary as you may think. Here water is your friend which is why it’s important to have already sealed the area you will put the decal with ‘Ardcoat. You don’t want to flood the application surface but you do want enough water to form a very small puddle under the decal (this is why you need your brush wet). The decal will bring water with it, but if it doesn’t use your brush to gently get under the decal and let the water on the brush pool underneath it.

The reason for this is the water will allow the decal to move across the surface you want to apply it to so you can gently move it around with your brush (opposed to it setting right where it happens to make first contact with the model). I recommend a brush with firm short bristles for this so you have more control

That is the brush I use to apply my decals. It hold enough water without flooding the surface, and its stiff enough to allow great control

Once you have the decal where you want it, take the corner or your paper towel and gently press down on the decal. This will set the decal where you want it and will dry up the water. You can dab the area if there are wrinkles or excess water after you have the decal set in place.

Next apply at least one (I do two to be safe) thin layer of the same thinned ‘Ardcoat as before, over the application area (the decal and the purple of the shoulder pad) to seal the decal in place and protect it.

Step Four

Apply a generous amount of matt varnish over the whole application arena. I don’t thin the matt varnish, I just put some strait from the bottle on my wet pallet and then paint it onto the shoulder pad.

Here is what it looks like after one coat is dry.

How many layers you do depends on your personal preference. Since I am doing only one shoulder pad for this tutorial I don’t have a comparison like I would on a fill miniature. I found doing my Iron Warriors that one this coat and two thin coats of matt varnish made it look identical to the other shoulder pads I had not used ‘Ardcoat on. So here is a picture of this pad after I have applied the tow thin coats on it.

I hope this helps you and saves you some money not having to buy any products specifically for doing decals like this. If you have any questions or need me to clarify anything please feel free to ask and I will be more than happy to answer!

Making Krälgor: Part 2

Here at long last is the second part to making Krälgor.

Phase 5 Base Painting

So at this face I put down all of my basic colors that I would build upon.  Note that I tried to do NMM (Non Metallic Metal), but after several horribly botched attempts I gave up and opted for metal.

Phase 6 Final Layers

Then next step was to do the final layers that would be the actual colors of things I was going to be adding more detail to later.  Basically this made the colors more solid.

Phase 7 Details and Freehand

Finally I got to fleshing out the details and doing some freehand. I did some Chaos Runes on the armor to (try) and make it look like they were burning.  And I wanted to add some screaming skulls and faces on the inside of the cape.  I also wanted to give him the classic World Eaters tribal tattoos like you see on Angron.

Phase 8 Final Details

Lastly  I touched things up like the XII on the flayed skin on the leg and added more definition with the final details.  I also painted and varnished the base.

And here he is complete!

20180107_180526

Sources to Make Samurai Space Marines

here is a compilation of sources for parts that can be used to create some stunning Samurai themed Space Marines!

I have been obsessed for awhile now with the idea of making some Space Marines that are based on feudal Japan’s legendary Samurai. I sadly will likely not be able to see this vision of mine come to life as I simply don’t have the money to start another wh40k army, but none the less I wanted to share with you what I have found, and hopefully learn of some more resources if you know of any I haven’t covered here.

I’m not going to touch on what Space Marine units (armor patterns) I think would be best to use, or what my lore ideas are behind my Samurai dream team lol. Instead I’m going to simply present you with what I found, and a little advice on how it could be used.

First up from https://puppetswar.eu (I really love these guys!!!!)

We have an awesome selection of Samurai heads and Katanas

They also have some ninja heads and ashigaru heads if you wanted to go that way with your army or maybe make your scouts like that. And they have some cool banners!

Then there is is this guy who is an awesome model, but honestly I would just get him for his bits to kit bash!

Next from http://anvilindustry.co.uk we have some really cool heads that while they are not (that I know of) actually intended to be samurai heads, I really think they look the part!

Then of course there are these great options for heads, back packs and more katanas from https://bitsofwar.com (Kromlech)

Honestly I think these are some of the best options available, and they are the only ones I have found with back packs!

If you want to go for a more traditional look then these heads from https://maxmini.eu/ are really good too

Finally some of the best I have found are from this source I just discovered https://www.shapeways.com/shops/haze_miniatures They have a great range of Katanas, Nodachi and Naganatas. But best of all they have some amazing looking shoulder pads that read very samurai while still keeping the traditional space marine pauldron look (because let’s face it even the least codex complying chapters still have the general space marine look) they also have some helmets that I assume you can just put one any bare head of your choosing.

Sadly in all my searching this is all I have been able to find. What do you think? Do you know of some more sources?

As always I would love to hear from you! Any and all feed back and advice is welcome!

Newest terrain piece Inquisitor Statue/Monument

I have been in a terrain building mood for awhile now, so I finally decided to scratch that itch and dive into my junk (supplies) box and get working. This was a pretty easy, and very fun piece to build. And for something that cost me nothing to make I think it looks pretty good!

The materials I used are as follows

1. Wrestler action figure toy

2. Cardboard box lid

3. Tooth pics

4. Tons of hot glue

5. Card board double bad single ply

6. Foam sheets

7. Styrofoam

8. Foamboard

9. Some greenstuff

10. Shrinkydinks

11. Note card

For paints I used cheap Walmart paints (not using good miniature paints on scratch built terrain 😅) and a little seraphim Sepia citadel wash and barely any Nuln oil wash.

Hope this tutorial helps, or at least inspires you!

As you can see from the above pictures I built a throne out of cardboard and foamboard for the statue to sit on. Then I cut out pieces of foam sheet (the pink, blue and white) to make the armor. I used hot glue to attach all of this though some of the foam sheets I just attached with the adhesive that is on the back of each sheet.

Next I made and Aquila and an inquisitor “I”. I then used a skull that I had made sculpted out of greenstuff to add embellishments. For the GS skull I made molds out of it so I can mass produce it. I did this with all of the sculpts that I used on this the the exception of the chains and molding you will see later. The foam sheets are an awesome material because you can use a pen to engrave things on it such as the letters and such you can see on the leg, the sash, and shoulder pauldrons.

Next I built the platform he would be on and added details to the throne. The platform is made from a hexagonal shaped box lid. Not exactly sure what the box was from as I got it second hand working for an elderly lady haha. Fancy cool box though and great for terrain since she was going to throw it away. The tiles on the floor and arches on the side of the throne are made from thin single ply cardboard that I had (miniature boxes specifically khorne berzerker box). Again I used some GS skulls that I had made molds of to add more detail. The little groan dots on you see on the columns of the arches on the throne are tiny skulls, though the detail is largely lost at a distance.

The sides and rim around the top of the platform are made from more foam sheets. I used a pen to make indentions to make the rim look like individual stones and the the arches on the side look more interesting.

The spikes are the corners are made from tooth picks and the skulls at their bases facing inwards are more of the cast GS skulls I made.

Granted a lot of this is pretty sloppy work but that is not because of the material as much as the person making it lol. This is for gaming not show and I’m incredibly impatient so I did not take my time as much as I could have to prevent minor imperfections. That said a lot of the flaws could have been eliminated by not using hot glue, but that is the fastest way, and paint will hide a lot of it.

I wanted to add more details so I decided to make a necklace to put on him. I had some left over chain I sculpted and never used when making Krälgor so I used that for the necklace chain. Next I used the same tiny skulls that I used on the side of the throne to make a beaded chain that would connect to the screaming skull that would be the medallion of the necklace.

The first picture is of the medallion part of the necklace. I added a tiny aquila to the forehead of the skull to make it more interesting.

The next picture is a test I did that did and didn’t work. I taped a sewing thread down with the idea that I would super glue the tiny skulls on it to make make the beads and help add strength to it with the thread being on the back. What happened which worked out well was the skulls glad together but came off the thread rather than being glued to it, so I had them glued together like I needed without having to worry about then being glued to my table.

So I skipped a few steps because I am posting this after completing the piece rather than working on it while I make the post.

The chain sword I made from a plastic knife, a plastic rod from a giant cue tip and again more foam sheet. I also made some purity seals that I added to liven things up a bit. The wax part of the seal is made from GS and the actual paper part is made from strips of note card I cut.

In the center of each arch on the sides of the platform I used cast skeleton bodies that I had sculpted and made molds from. The back of the throne is more foam sheet that I engraved (poorly) the inquisition symbol.

Finally I painted everything. I was going for a dark grey marble look on the statue itself, which I think I got close to, but not exact. As for painting the skulls (realistic ones) skeleton bodies I just mixed some brown and white to base them in an almost flesh looking color, dry brushed with white, and finished with a wash of Saraphim Sepia.

I also used sepia on the paper of the purity seals which I had previously painted white to make them look a little more dirty and aged.

All in all this was a fun piece to work on and for something that cost me nothing to make I think it looks pretty good for a terrain piece!

If you liked this than please follow the blog, and if you have any questions or feedback I would love to hear from you!