Using Games-workshop Water Slide Decals (Easy and Cheap)

A very easy and cheap tutorial on how to use Games-workshop water slide decals and get great results.

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So I know I have had trouble in the past with the Games-workshop water slide decals and after learning how to do them easily and getting good results I decided if anyone wanted to know my method I would do a tutorial. So hear it its!

I got a shoulder pad I had from my bits and decided to paint it up so that if worst comes to worst I can always use it for basing another miniature in the future. So with that in mind and my army being World Eaters I opted to do an Emperors Children Shoulder pad and decal.

So let’s get to it.

Materials you will need.

1. Games-workshop water slide decal of your choice.

2. Two containers or water (one to clean your brushes, and one that is clean to soak the decal and wet your brushes and thin your paints/varnish.

3. Games-workshop Technical paint ‘Ardcoat

4. Matt Varnish (I used Vallejo’s Matt varnish)

5. Pair of tweezers (to hold the decal in water).

6. Your desired brushes.

7. Paper Towel.

Prep

I based the shoulder pad with Abaddon Black. Then I did to coats of Xerxes Purple. On the trim I based them in Brass Scorpion. I then dry brushed the purple with Pink Horror and applied a wash of Carroburg Crimson. Finally I applied 3 coats of Auric Armour Gold to the trim. I wanted to have the dry brush texture there so you can see that all details are preserved doing this method.

Step One

Now that the shoulder pad is painted the way I wanted I applied a generous coating of ‘Ardcoat that was thinned with water (about 1/3 water) all over the purple part of the pauldron (shoulder pad). This is to seal and protect your work underneath as well as give you a smooth surface to apply the decal. If you want you can apply more coats, but I find one works. Let that fully dry.

Step Two

Grab your decal with your tweezers and hold it in the water (Note: the new decals only take about 30-45 seconds in the water, but the new ones take longer).

Next you take the decal and put it near where you will apply it to the miniature. The older decals stick a little more to the paper so you may have to use your finger a little to get it moving off the paper. The new ones you can just use your brush. Make sure the brush you use to apply the decal is wet, this will be important for the next part.

Step Three

The application part is not as scary as you may think. Here water is your friend which is why it’s important to have already sealed the area you will put the decal with ‘Ardcoat. You don’t want to flood the application surface but you do want enough water to form a very small puddle under the decal (this is why you need your brush wet). The decal will bring water with it, but if it doesn’t use your brush to gently get under the decal and let the water on the brush pool underneath it.

The reason for this is the water will allow the decal to move across the surface you want to apply it to so you can gently move it around with your brush (opposed to it setting right where it happens to make first contact with the model). I recommend a brush with firm short bristles for this so you have more control

That is the brush I use to apply my decals. It hold enough water without flooding the surface, and its stiff enough to allow great control

Once you have the decal where you want it, take the corner or your paper towel and gently press down on the decal. This will set the decal where you want it and will dry up the water. You can dab the area if there are wrinkles or excess water after you have the decal set in place.

Next apply at least one (I do two to be safe) thin layer of the same thinned ‘Ardcoat as before, over the application area (the decal and the purple of the shoulder pad) to seal the decal in place and protect it.

Step Four

Apply a generous amount of matt varnish over the whole application arena. I don’t thin the matt varnish, I just put some strait from the bottle on my wet pallet and then paint it onto the shoulder pad.

Here is what it looks like after one coat is dry.

How many layers you do depends on your personal preference. Since I am doing only one shoulder pad for this tutorial I don’t have a comparison like I would on a fill miniature. I found doing my Iron Warriors that one this coat and two thin coats of matt varnish made it look identical to the other shoulder pads I had not used ‘Ardcoat on. So here is a picture of this pad after I have applied the tow thin coats on it.

I hope this helps you and saves you some money not having to buy any products specifically for doing decals like this. If you have any questions or need me to clarify anything please feel free to ask and I will be more than happy to answer!

Making Krälgor: Part 2

Here at long last is the second part to making Krälgor.

Phase 5 Base Painting

So at this face I put down all of my basic colors that I would build upon.  Note that I tried to do NMM (Non Metallic Metal), but after several horribly botched attempts I gave up and opted for metal.

Phase 6 Final Layers

Then next step was to do the final layers that would be the actual colors of things I was going to be adding more detail to later.  Basically this made the colors more solid.

Phase 7 Details and Freehand

Finally I got to fleshing out the details and doing some freehand. I did some Chaos Runes on the armor to (try) and make it look like they were burning.  And I wanted to add some screaming skulls and faces on the inside of the cape.  I also wanted to give him the classic World Eaters tribal tattoos like you see on Angron.

Phase 8 Final Details

Lastly  I touched things up like the XII on the flayed skin on the leg and added more definition with the final details.  I also painted and varnished the base.

And here he is complete!

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New CSM Models: Iron Warriors.

I finally finished painting the new CSM kit as Iron Warriors. First IW units I have ever painted so all and all I’m pretty pleased with the way they turned out. I decided early on I was going to just paint these guys for the tabletop and not put to much time and detail on them. I’m both happy and embarrassed to say that this is the fastest I have ever painted this many models at once before lol.

Looking at art of iron warriors most of it will show them in either really shiny gun metal armor or armor that is so dark it is almost black. Most paint schemes I have seen people do often have them metallic but extremely drab so that they look very dull, or extremely shiny so that their armor looks like it gets polished 20x a day. I decided I wanted to go with something in the middle that would also be easy/fast(ish) to paint. The look I was ultimately going for was to start out shiny, and darken it up to look very worn as if it had been dirtied bad blacked from a siege. Then to keep it from looking to drab I used a lighter silver to do some subtle edge highlights to make sure it kept the shiny look while also being very drab. On the bases I new I wanted a dirty battlefield look, and I’m quite pleased with the result I got on the bases. Since I was going for quick tabletop ready results I opted to use the water slide decals instead of free hand. My past experiences with them were not good at all, but after more research and a new method I am very pleased with how easy and fast it was to do them.

If you want to know any of the paints, steps, techniques or any other step of the process just let me know and I will be happy to tell you!

Here they are posed with my scratch built terrain.

Painting the noise marine part 2

Well he is coming along slowly (very slowly) but surely.

The hair was very frustrating to see how I wanted to do it, and I will likely regret my methods in the future. But hey, every mini is a learning experience (for me at least). The hair is largely finished ad the point minus some highlighting and shading I want to add. So far the most difficult thing about painting this guy is the fact that I still have no clear vision of what I want yet.

On one hand I want to make this guy as gaudy as possible, while still having a general theme. On the other hand I what to make him a bit more traditional Emperor’s Children looking (but that seems boring to do with this awesome mini). In the end this lack of vision is causing me to leave many areas unattended while putting in details that I know I want to do (which will be hell later on to touch things up), and this in turn makes him look more like a patchwork mess. I may take a break working on him until I can have a more solid idea of what I want to do. So far what I do have any idea about wanting to do is a “Starry Night” type designs on the shoulder pads that I will have as a back ground of any symbols I paint. And on the right leg I want to attempt to get an interesting pattern that is inspired by this

I think if I can get close to this choral look that it will be really cool looking and very reminiscent of the Laer (which is where the Emperor’s Children first encountered Slaanesh). Not really sure how I will do that though.

As for the left leg I what to attempt some free hand where I have painted the area grey and attempt to paint this image of Slaanesh on his leg

then the brown part of the leg I think I will paint leopard print to stick with the more traditional paint scheme seen on this guy and his 1991 counterpart.

If you have may ideas or feed back, I would love to hear from you, and I would very much appreciate any advice or suggestions!

Painting the Noise Marine part 1

So I finally got this guy base painted. Since I am pretty much just painting this model for fun I opted to not use spray paint to prime him like I normally would had instead base painted him by hand. So far I am not really sure what I want to do with him, so 90% of all the areas I based black are areas I am still unsure how I want to paint them.

Well a thing happened…

I went to the hobby store and saw this guy, and couldn’t resist buying him! I will like never use this miniature in my army as I don’t force having Slaaneshi scum in my of devout servants of Khorne. But hell I have wanted to paint one of these miniatures from the first time I saw the 1991 model! Thus noise marine is going to be some serious fun to paint!

I also could not help but add some skulls to the base for some flavour since the base seemed too empty haha. I will post the painted figure later.

Making Krälgor: Part 1

The first part of me making my World Eaters Leader Krälgor.

Now that I have uploaded a very lengthy bio for the Legion of Carnage I am going to start uploading everything I have done such as painting, sculpting, kit bashing, building terrain and anything else that I happen to do along my journey in the 40k hobby.

So I think the best place to start would be my Commander Krälgor The Herald of Carnage. This is a bit of a tutorial as well as a show case.

A little background

***Nothing in this part is vital for the tutorial/showcase of the model, so if you don’t care about the background feel free to skip this part***

I got into the wh40k tabletop when a friend who has played for years went in half and half on the dark vengeance starter set (Yeah, I haven’t been in the hobby very long). I knew I wanted to do a World Eaters Khornate army, so I got the CSM and he got the DA. I started out with only two GW paints (Sycorax Bronze & Wazdakka Red), and had really no idea of what units were good or bad. Long story short (will post how I got into 40k and such maybe at a later time) I played my first few games and loved it, but I wanted to really flesh out my army and my leader leader more. I knew I wanted a Chaos terminator lord rather than a Daemon prince (I do plan on getting/making one though someday) because I had started to formulate an idea of how I wanted Krälgor to look. Throughout my time getting into this hobby I quickly fell in love with the modeling and terrain aspect of it all (if I’m honest I almost like do that more than actual wargaming aspect), so I started trying to learn as much as I could and get ideas on how to make mode interesting models and such by sculpting, painting and kit bashing. So when I was looking on GW’s site for models that had interesting parts I would like to get to kit bash I decided to look at WHFB models as I had seen many other people make some amazing unique looking units with WHFB bits. I had already seen, loved and decided I would use the FW Zhufor the Impaler model for the base model to build upon but I wanted to make my leader unique so I didn’t want to use the head. I came across the Vampire Counts Vlad model and was immediately inspired from the head, namely the hair. So to quickly get to the point here is what my original raw concept was: I wanted my leader to be a complete fanatic to Khorne, so he would almost be a mix or a WB Dark Apostle and a Khorne Berzerker. At the same time I wanted him to be very fair in features that would almost come across as handsome to offset the nature of the character. As you will see I later changed this concept some, but I still kept most things from it. One I wanted him to have long flowing hair, and I wanted it to be super pale white. Two I wanted him to have extremely almost deathly pale ashen skin. And lastly I wanted him to have traditional world water gribal/gladiatorial tattoos like Angron. As far as armour went I wanted him have tons of trophies, and to signify his more barbaric WE past I wanted him to have either a fur cloak, or have fur draped over his cloak and armor. Lastly I wanted him to have two chain axes would make him stand out. So now that that is out of the way I’ll dive into the making of Krälgor the Herald of Carnage.

Phase 1: Pose

Before I started any work on Krälgor I wanted to see how the model would fit together in the pose I wanted him to be in. To do this I cut everything that would need to be adjusted from the standard models pose and stuck it together with blue sticky tack. Since the Icon of Khorne on the top front of his armour would not be needing adjusting I went ahead and glued in in place to get an idea of how it would look.

Phase 2: Sculpts

Next I sculpted the details I wanted on Krälgor, as well as filled in gaps, and did sculpting to fit the pieces I had cut and re-positioned on him. I was greatly inspired by the Khorne Daemonkin codex, so fill out the character I sculpted a book to be a tome of slaughter bound in human flesh. I used to pieces of shrunk Shrinky-dinks with a blob of greenstuff (GS) in between that I used my hobby knifes to make groves in it to form the pages. then I put on both sides and sculpted the cover.

Next I sculpted a the other parts, as well as a lip around the base so any Blood for the Blood God paint (BFBG) would be able to pool.

At this point I had attached many of the bits I would use, making sure as best I could that they all would flow in a logical direction like the wind was blowing it, as well as the awesome looking axes from puppetswarminiatures which they sadly no longer carry last I checked. I also sculpted a back on a chest piece so I could use it for a skull loin cloth on the back. lastly I took one of the God-awful khorne berzerker champion heads and attempted to make it into a noise marine head. I was ok with how it turned out, but I ended up not using it as it did not fit on the base in a way that I was please with.

Next I sculpted the hair and the butchers nails on the head. Then I started on sculpting the fur for the cloak, and exhaust pipes, some chains to wrap around his arm later and some strips to be flayed flesh that would chaotic mockeries of the purity seals.

Phase 3: Final Touches

Finally I glued on the bits and put them in place, as well as added more fur and skulls to the cloak. At this point I had everything in place and was ready to begin painting.

Phase 4: Priming

This next phase was really straightforward but I am including it to point out/share two things. One is that because I had do so much sculpting and and had so many small details I did not do what I usually would do which is use black spray paint. Instead I hand painted him to prime him. The second thing I want to point out is the most important painting lesson I have learned, and that is to thin your paint, and do multiple thin layers to make sure you do not cover up any details. I highly recommend making/using a wet pallet.

I will end this step-by-step here and save the painting of Krälgor for the second half . I hope you have enjoyed this. If you have any questions or would like me to clarify anything please feel free to ask! Until next time!